A Taste for Fine Tea in Japan

Victoria Eadon-Clarke

While such gatherings remain niche, they are not isolated and they are often open to visitors. Practitioners throughout Japan have been creating spaces for enthusiasts to explore fine Chinese teas, and the interest does not stop at Chinese leaves. Spaces are experimenting with Chinese brewing techniques and applying them to Japanese tea varieties, creating an interesting intersection between the two tea cultures. While Asian tea cultures have never existed in complete isolation, Japan is seeing a niche resurgence in cross-cultural exploration, with some specialists beginning to test different approaches to tea preparation.

Where to Sip

Sakurai is a tea tasting house found in Omotesando’s Spiral Building. The leaves are selected from across Japan, and prepared with experimental brewing techniques. Sakurai also produces tea-infused spirits in-house, creating another expression of the drink to enjoy. Alongside Japanese teas such as Gyokuro and the artisanal Ise Shoseikan, influences from Chinese and Taiwanese tea culture are present in Sakurai’s concept, reflecting the growing curiosity about the different ways of preparation. 

Appreciation of tea extends beyond tasting salons to luxury dining. Similarly to wine pairings, Sazenka, an acclaimed Chinese restaurant in Minami-Azabu, Tokyo, treats the tea pairing for each course with as much care and sensibility as connoisseurs. Diners will taste Chinese, Taiwanese, and Japanese teas – a selection that prioritizes flavor and experience, welcoming consideration to the character and brew of each infusion. This shows that tea can share the same elevated curated space in fine dining as wine or sake.

The Tea Party

Sitting around a wide table at a private gathering, I poured myself a small cup of third-infusion Wuyi Tea. I then passed the fairness pitcher to the next guest. At the head of the table sat a Japanese teacher specializing in Chinese tea, who recounted the history of the leaves down to the particular trees and the mountains where they were grown. Around her, Japanese women listened attentively while savoring the brew. The focus of this intimate gathering wasn’t an elaborate spread of food, but specialist tea knowledge and exclusive tea leaves.  

The Appeal of Tea

For luxury travelers, this emerging interest offers another way to deepen the intrigue of Japan’s tea scene beyond matcha. A private tasting can become an introduction to the types of leaves and the provenance of the harvest – with seemingly endless varieties of leaf preparation and brewing techniques. These gatherings provide the perfect opportunity for visitors looking to drink in local culture and customs. 

For now, the interest is concentrated among affluent circles and tea enthusiasts. The greatest appeal remains not in the tea itself but in the community gathering around it. These gatherings offer a place to learn and a reason to meet, giving a relaxing hobby for people to share over a cup.

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