Quiet Luxury & Spiritual Travel | Fukui, Japan

Kodo is the Japanese art of appreciating the fragrances of various aromatic woods, such as Chinko, which is primarily sourced from Southeast Asia. Rooted in the spirit of Zen Buddhism, Kodo demands a deep commitment to etiquette, behavior, classical literature, and calligraphy as one progresses in the practice. However, at its core, Kodo is fundamentally about the enjoyment of fragrance itself. Many individuals appreciate incense without adhering to traditional Kodo etiquette, and numerous incense products are marketed for this purpose.

In Japan, one notable fragrant wood from Southeast Asia has arrived on Awaji Island. In a sense, fragrant wood embodies a form of “healing power,” created by trees in their natural effort to heal wounds. This phenomenon is beyond human control, as it arises from a unique combination of conditions. In Kodo, the act of appreciating incense is referred to as “hearing,” while “smelling” is often considered less refined. The two primary elements of Kodo are monko, the practice of listening to and appreciating the fragrances of aromatic woods, and kumiko, a game focused on distinguishing different scents. Practitioners believe that fragrant wood is a living entity, with each piece possessing a soul, and they treat this rare natural resource with the utmost respect and care. The term “listening” is used to describe the experience of attuning oneself to the voice of nature and the earth through the fragrance of these woods, fostering a connection with nature while also reflecting inward. Kodo has gained acceptance within wellness circles, as the scent of fragrant wood is known to positively influence brain function and revitalization.

Master Sohitsu Hachiya, Shinoryu – 志野流香道若宗匠 蜂谷宗苾

We invited Kodo master, Sohitsu Hachiya, to Beniya in order to lead the Kodo ceremony, a gathering to hear the fragrances, especially the incense 聞香会. 

Sohitsu meticulously arranges the incense implements one by one, retrieving an incense packet from the Shino bag. He cleanses the tray with a fukusa, adorned with a design of Shinobugusa, a plant associated with the Shino school, rendered in exquisite maki-e lacquer. A small plate of mica, referred to as a “silver leaf,” is placed atop the ashes in the censer. Finally, the incense packet is carefully opened, and the fragrant wood is delicately grasped with wooden incense chopsticks before being placed on the silver leaf. As the aroma of the fragrant wood begins to waft through the air, the young master samples it and quietly announces the name of the fragrance: “Ouchi,” before passing it around to the other members of the group. Every movement he makes is a work of art. We savor the scent of this natural wood, a chip of fragrant wood that dates back several hundred years, as precious as a jewel. In that moment, we feel as though we have slipped back in time to the 15th century, experiencing the Japanese Renaissance during the Higashiyama Culture period.

Beniya, Awara Onsen